而且,有时能够很明显地看出,一些人的所谓「学习」,只是把一套操作流程(譬如 lead 后如何清理顶部保护站),死硬地记住,——这样死记操作步骤,面对复杂场景很可能出事。更好的方式,需要在自己理解原理的基础上,不断地去想,自己的每一个操作是否合理,在不同的场景下,是否存在考虑不够完备的地方,从而导致危险。
传统攀岩建保护站时,需要考虑的内容,有 serene 或者 ernest 之类的词用来助记:
S – Solid or Strong E – Equalized R – Redundant E – Efficient NE – No Extension
E – Equalized R – Redunant NE – No Extension S – Solid or Strong T – Timely
Solid,保护点是否坚固?
Equalized,保护站的承重,是否均衡地分布到多个保护点上?
Redundant,任何一个保护点脱落,是否有冗余的保护点提供多重保障?
Efficient / Timely,建站的过程是否快捷,有效率?
No Extension,任何一个保护点脱落时,其它保护点是否能够在原处静态地把所有重量拉住,而不是先下落一小段,造成动态冲击?
Hannibal Lecter: After your father's murder, you were orphaned. You were ten years old. You went to live with cousins on a sheep and horse ranch in Montana. And…?
Clarice Starling: [tears begin forming in her eyes] And one morning, I just ran away.
Hannibal Lecter: No "just", Clarice. What set you off? You started at what time?
……
Hannibal Lecter: And what did you see, Clarice? What did you see?
Clarice Starling: Lambs. The lambs were screaming.
Hannibal Lecter: They were slaughtering the spring lambs?
Clarice Starling: And they were screaming.
Hannibal Lecter: And you ran away?
Clarice Starling: No. First I tried to free them. I… I opened the gate to their pen, but they wouldn't run. They just stood there, confused. They wouldn't run.
Hannibal Lecter: But you could and you did, didn't you?
Clarice Starling: Yes. I took one lamb, and I ran away as fast as I could.
Hannibal Lecter: Where were you going, Clarice?
Clarice Starling: I don't know. I didn't have any food, any water and it was very cold, very cold. I thought, I thought if I could save just one, but… he was so heavy. So heavy. I didn't get more than a few miles when the sheriff's car picked me up. The rancher was so angry he sent me to live at the Lutheran orphanage in Bozeman. I never saw the ranch again.
Hannibal Lecter: What became of your lamb, Clarice?
Clarice Starling: They killed him.
Hage, G. (2003). “Comes a time we are all enthusiasm”: Understanding Palestinian suicide bombers in times of exighophobia. Public Culture, 15(1), 65–89.
WIFI……当然是没有的,也没有接网线用的路由器。那个时代的人类,把网线里面的两组导线,互换位置,直接插在两台电脑上,就组成了只有两台电脑的局域网。这样的网线我随身带着一根——当然不是因为预见到有人会和我联机打游戏,而是在路上如果需要和其它电脑之间传输文件的话,在没有 USB 3.0的时代,用网线直连然后共享文件夹,是最方便快速的方式。